Well, everyone knows only main boards have a serial number, so you need a permit for that. But the rest is a spare part, you can get it freely.

/s

Oh, great, my country is in the news again. Oh, wait, it’s bad news, again. Here’s some better news: the students have blocked all the universities and other people are joining the protests in hopes of overthrowing the authoritarian regime. The corruption has reached peak levels and is actually killing people. The government is doing it’s best to stay in power, but no real, mass violence has been applied just yet. People have given up on elections because they are demonstrably fixed and can’t change anything. I don’t know how this will end.

Are they any close? Seems like they’ve been doing it for ages and they aren’t close.

In Futurama, they renamed it to Urectum :)

Agree, it didn’t do anything to avoid the obstacle. A human could probably see it as an obstacle and try to swerve to the side, albeit not knowing what it is. Not saying it’s possible to avoid, but some reaction would be made.

Thanks. The mill is utter trash though, which I modded as much as I could (the pink part is a 3d printed funnel), the wheels are not grippy enough, the knurling isn’t deep enough and I end up having to push the grain with my fingers and it’s very tedious and slow. I spent an hour milling a 5 kg of grain. It wasn’t even finely ground. It’s the next thing I’ll upgrade, as soon as I find a good brand/model.

This looks like heat creep and/or clog. Check the hotend fan (not the part cooling one). If it starts happening after a while, it’s either that or the nozzle has cooled too much. But if it happens with lower speed as well, then I wouldn’t say it’s that it’s the latter. Try increasing the temperature. I’m printing mine at 270°C. Also I keep the bed at 70°C but that’s not important. I’ve had issues like that with bad conducting nozzles (hardened/stainless steel) and thermistors not properly seated on the heat block. When this happens, pause the print, try feeding the filament by hand and see if there is any resistance (can you feel the clog). Try increasing the temperature, reduce the retraction distance to try and avoid it. I’m printing exclusively with petg for years now, never had issues like this due to moisture. You get more stringing, yes, but no failures on actual printing.

Well, I’ve been a C/C++ dev for half of my career, I didn’t find Rust syntax ugly. Some things are better than others, but not a major departure from C/C++. ObjC is where ugly is at. And I even think swift is more ugly. In fact, I can’t find too many that are as close to C/C++ as Rust. As for logic… Well, I want to say you’ll get used to it, but for some things, it’s not true. Rust is a struggle. Whether it’s worth it, is your choice. I personally would take it over C++ any day.

In 2024? No, unless it’s a plus. Plus already has that support. E5 has an 8 bit board and no silent drivers. If I’d be buying today,I’d buy sovol sv08. It has everything already done to it while being open source and is able to be modded out of the box.

Oh, yes, it caused weird resonant vibrations at certain speeds. A terrible design and way too flexible bed. Some people print some struts, but I didn’t find them to be much of a solution. I ended up mirroring the far side and copying it to front. Now it’s very rigid and the quality has vastly improved especially at speed printing.

I did it and I’m very satisfied with the result. Though I went full diy and ordered parts individually. I did all of the printed parts from recycled PET from bottles which I recycled myself. The rest I ordered from aliexpress. I have a previous version, didn’t get around to update. I made an adaptor for herome gen 6 hotend holder and made it with mostly stock e3d v6 hotend. I just added a cht nozzle. Don’t need anything else. But the best mod IMO is the dual z axis which I recommend even without mercury conversion.

Edit: I did it on ender 5, have no clue what’s the difference on other printers.

Have you tried zed? Written in rust, has many extensions. I gave it a try, I quite like it. It’s blazing fast. But I haven’t tried on an old machine.

You could use just a regular 5 min epoxy. I frequently use CA glue, but depending on your use case, it might be too brittle.

Did a top level comment for readability. Sorry for the delay.

Update: I bought a b-stock Nux Mighty Space and it’s been working great! Just what I needed. That being said, some things I’m using more than others. Things I use:

• USB interface as a speaker for my PC. Speakers in my monitor are just trash. This is way better. It’s not stereo HiFi, but I have dedicated speakers for that.

• Wireless dongle. So convenient and makes me play more than before. A bonus is you can also have a different guitar plugged inat the same time. Not super important, but still.

• App is decent and there’s an open source alternative, making sure the amp is supported for many years.

• it’s nice that it is just a basic Bluetooth speaker when you connect to it. Haven’t used it that much, but I can see it coming in handy every once in a while.

Things I haven’t used:

• Looper - not used to it that much

• drum loops - seem basic and kind of crappy

• tinkering - I’m fairly satisfied with the presets out of the box, so I haven’t found the need to tinker too much. Perhaps occasionally gain and eq.

Things that bother me a bit:

• All the presets are too bass-heavy. There’s a global eq that can be tweaked. This bothers me on so many audio devices lately. More bass is NOT always more better. I dialed it in, but cmon. I’m not 12. The guitar is never supposed to be that boomy.

That’s it, any questions, just shoot.

Are you gonna plane it? Oof, that can be tough.

It’s actually quite common and is in theory superior to side grain ones. Dulls the knife less this way. All the cutting and gluing does make it more expensive though. I’ve never used one, so I’ll have to make one for myself and see if the hype is true.

There’s variants and subvariants too. There’s fish glue, which is close to hide glue. There’s also waterproof versions of PVA glues. Not to mention PU glues and epoxies. Though, besides PVA and hide and fish, the rest are rarely used for guitars. But traditionally, only hide glue is acceptable. Not really rightfully so IMO, but it is what it is.

PVA is more commonly known as wood glue nowadays. But hide and PVA are both commonly used.

I don’t know where you got that, but the difference is marginal at best. The quantity of glue used is very small, if used correctly, in both cases. The amount of finish is at least an order of magnitude more and affects the sound dampening significantly more. And I don’t see companies stating how many layers they put on. Not to mention pore fillers and other stuff.